"Ypres in French, Ieper in Flemish. The Tommies of the first world war could get their tongues around neither version, and so gave the medieval Belgian town their own name -"Wipers". Which came to stand for death. For, while the Somme has entered the English lexicon as the ultimate expression of chaos and disaster, in fact far more lives were lost in the mud of the Ypres salient than on the Somme over the four years of the 1914-1918 war, and the area is packed with war graves, monuments, and visual reminders of the horrific and bloody battles."
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